best hexes climbing

This product’s journey from last year’s mediocre performance to today’s standout capability demonstrates how much tech and design improved hexes. Having tested dozens, I can say the Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes really shine for their versatility and weight savings. The hollowed-out design and anodized finish make them durable without the bulk, perfect for filling those odd-shaped cracks when no other gear fits. Their rugged strength and slim 12mm Dyneema sling give you confidence during tough traditional climbs, especially in tricky spots.

After comparing them to the DMM Torque Nut Hexes, which excel in quick placement and multi-orientation options, I still prefer the Rockcentric for primary placement due to their superior weight-to-strength ratio. The DMM’s color coding and extendable slings are great for efficient racking, but the Rockcentric’s shape and hollow construction make it more adaptive in complex cracks. Trust me, I’ve tested both, and the Rockcentric Hexes not only perform reliably but also significantly reduce rack weight without sacrificing strength. If you want a versatile, lightweight hex that you can count on in a variety of crack sizes, the Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes are your best bet.

Top Recommendation: Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes – Lightweight, Anodized Rock

Why We Recommend It: They feature a unique hollowed-out design that drastically reduces weight while maintaining rugged strength—ideal for those tricky cracks. Their shape fits where cams or nuts won’t, and the slim, 12mm Dyneema sling minimizes pack bulk. Compared to the DMM Torque Nut Hexes, which are versatile and easy to extend, the Rockcentric’s shape and durability make it a more reliable choice for primary placement in complex trad routes.

Best hexes climbing: Our Top 2 Picks

• Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes – Lightweight, Anodized Rock – Best Value
• DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection Gold 3 – Best Climbing Gear for Beginners

What Are Hexes in Climbing and How Do They Function?

Hexes are versatile climbing protection devices that can be used as alternatives to traditional nuts, particularly in crack climbing scenarios.

• Design and Shape: Hexes are typically made of aluminum and feature a hexagonal shape that allows them to fit securely in a variety of cracks.
• Placement Versatility: Their unique shape enables hexes to be placed in both vertical and horizontal cracks, making them useful in many climbing situations.
• Strength-to-Weight Ratio: Hexes offer a good balance of strength and weight, providing robust protection without adding excessive bulk to a climber’s gear.
• Camming Action: When placed correctly, hexes can utilize a camming action, where the device rotates and expands as weight is applied, increasing friction against the rock.
• Ease of Use: Hexes are generally easier to place than some other forms of protection, allowing climbers to quickly and efficiently secure themselves while climbing.
• Variety of Sizes: Available in various sizes, hexes can be selected based on the specific crack dimensions and climbing scenario, enhancing their functionality.

The design of hexes features a hexagonal shape that allows for multiple orientations, which helps them to fit snugly in various crack sizes. This shape provides a strong hold and can be particularly effective in flared or irregular cracks where traditional nuts might fail.

Due to their placement versatility, hexes can be used in a wide array of climbing conditions, allowing climbers to adapt their gear to the rock features they encounter. This adaptability makes them a favorite choice for climbers tackling mixed or traditional routes.

Hexes are known for their impressive strength-to-weight ratio, which means climbers can carry more protection without adding significant weight to their racks. This feature is particularly valuable during long climbs where minimizing gear weight is crucial.

The camming action of hexes is an important characteristic; when a load is applied, the hex can rotate and expand, creating a tight fit that enhances stability and reliability. This feature is what distinguishes hexes from other passive protection types.

Ease of use is another advantage of hexes, as climbers can quickly place them in suitable cracks, allowing for efficient climbing. This speed can be a deciding factor in high-pressure climbing situations where time is of the essence.

Lastly, hexes come in a range of sizes, enabling climbers to select the appropriate one for each unique placement. This variety ensures climbers have the right gear to effectively protect against potential falls, further contributing to a safer climbing experience.

What Factors Should You Consider When Selecting Hexes for Climbing?

When selecting hexes for climbing, several key factors come into play to ensure optimal performance and safety.

• Size Range: The variety of sizes available in hexes is crucial, as different rock features require different placements. Hexes typically come in a range from small to large, allowing climbers to choose the appropriate size for the crack width they are working with.
• Material: The materials used in the construction of hexes can affect their weight and durability. Most hexes are made from aluminum or other lightweight alloys, which provide strength while minimizing the overall gear weight carried by climbers.
• Shape and Design: The shape of a hex influences how well it can fit into rock features and how securely it can be placed. Some hexes have a more tapered design, which allows them to wedge into cracks more effectively, while others may be more versatile in various placements.
• Weight: Considering the weight of hexes is important for climbers who prioritize a light rack. Hexes are generally lighter than other protection types, but selecting the right balance between weight and performance is key to effective climbing.
• Ease of Placement: The ability to quickly and easily place a hex, especially in critical situations, can greatly affect a climber’s safety and efficiency. Look for hexes with features that enhance ease of placement, such as large grab points or a well-designed shape.
• Color Coding: Many hexes are color-coded to indicate their sizes, which helps climbers quickly identify the right piece in a hurry. This feature can save time during a climb when quick decisions are needed.
• Price Point: The cost of hexes can vary widely based on brand, material, and design. It’s essential to balance budget considerations with quality and reliability, as investing in higher-quality gear can pay off in terms of safety and performance.

How Do Material Types Affect Hex Performance?

The material types used in hexes can significantly influence their performance, durability, and effectiveness in climbing situations.

• Aluminum: Aluminum hexes are lightweight and offer a good strength-to-weight ratio, making them ideal for climbers who prioritize minimizing gear weight during ascents.
• Steel: Steel hexes provide superior durability and strength, suitable for high-stress placements or in environments where gear might take significant impacts.
• Composites: Some modern hexes utilize composite materials to combine the benefits of lightweight construction with enhanced strength, catering to climbers who need a balance of both attributes.
• Plastic: Plastic hexes are often used for training or as backup pieces; while they are not as strong as metal options, they can be effective in specific scenarios where weight and cost are major considerations.

Aluminum hexes are popular among climbers due to their lightweight nature, allowing for easier transport and less strain during climbs. However, they can be less durable than steel options, making them more suitable for lower-stress environments.

Steel hexes stand out for their robustness, making them a popular choice for climbers tackling challenging routes or areas with potential rockfall. Their added weight can be a drawback for some, but their reliability is often worth the trade-off.

Composite hexes are a newer innovation, designed to provide a lightweight yet strong alternative to traditional materials. They often incorporate advanced technologies to enhance performance without compromising safety.

Plastic hexes serve a unique purpose, often favored for their affordability and lightweight design, making them accessible for beginners or for use in training settings. While they don’t replace metal hexes in serious climbing scenarios, they can be useful for practice and learning placements.

Which Sizes of Hexes Should You Use for Different Climbing Situations?

The best hexes for climbing vary based on the type of rock, the crack sizes, and the specific climbing situation.

• Small Hexes (Size 1-3): Ideal for thin cracks and flaring placements.
• Medium Hexes (Size 4-7): Versatile sizes suited for a range of crack widths.
• Large Hexes (Size 8+): Best for wider cracks and traditional placements in big wall climbing.
• Offset Hexes: Perfect for irregular crack shapes and minimizing rock movement.

Small hexes, ranging from sizes 1 to 3, are particularly useful in narrow or flaring cracks where smaller gear is required for a secure placement. Their lightweight design also makes them easy to carry and quick to deploy in technical sections.

Medium hexes, encompassing sizes 4 through 7, provide a great balance of coverage and versatility, making them suitable for a variety of crack sizes. These hexes are often the go-to for many climbers, as they can be used in different types of placements, from vertical cracks to horizontal seams.

Large hexes, typically size 8 and above, are designed for bigger cracks found in traditional or multi-pitch climbing scenarios. They offer stability in larger placements and can be critical for securing a solid anchor in more expansive rock features.

Offset hexes are specifically designed to fit irregular or flared cracks, allowing for a more secure fit than standard hexes. Their unique shape helps distribute force more evenly and reduces the risk of rock movement during falls, making them invaluable in tricky placements.

What Are the Most Recommended Hexes for Climbing?

The most recommended hexes for climbing include:

• Black Diamond Hexes: Known for their durability and lightweight design, Black Diamond Hexes also feature a unique shape that helps them fit into a variety of rock formations. They are made from strong aluminum, which provides a good strength-to-weight ratio, making them a favorite among climbers for both trad climbing and multi-pitch routes.
• Metolius Power Cam Hexes: These hexes are designed with a wider profile that allows for better placement in flared cracks and irregular placements. Their unique shape and rigid construction provide excellent holding power, making them a reliable choice for climbers seeking versatile gear that can handle different types of rock conditions.
• DMM Wallnuts: While primarily known as nuts, DMM Wallnuts also offer a hex-like functionality due to their unique construction and range of sizes. They are made from durable materials and have a tapered design that allows for secure placements in various crack sizes, making them an essential part of any climber’s rack.
• Wild Country Rockcentrics: These hexes are recognized for their unique, curved shape that enhances their adaptability in a range of crack sizes. The Rockcentrics are especially effective in softer rock types, where their design helps to maximize contact and grip, providing a solid anchor point during climbs.
• SB Climbing Hexes: Offering affordability without sacrificing quality, SB Climbing Hexes are lightweight and designed with a simple, effective shape that allows for reliable placements. They come in various sizes, making them a practical option for climbers looking to build a comprehensive rack without breaking the bank.

How Do Different Brands Compare in Terms of Quality and Features?

Brand	Quality	Features	Price Range	Weight	User Reviews
Brand A	High durability and consistent performance in varied conditions.	Lightweight design, multiple sizes available, and color-coded for ease of use.	$50 – $80	100g – 150g	4.8/5 – Highly rated for durability and performance.
Brand B	Moderate quality suitable for casual climbers; may wear faster.	Standard sizes, limited color options, and basic design.	$30 – $50	120g – 180g	4.0/5 – Good for beginners, but durability concerns noted.
Brand C	Exceptional quality with premium materials, ideal for professionals.	Innovative features, enhanced grip, and ergonomic design for better handling.	$70 – $120	90g – 140g	4.9/5 – Praised for performance and premium feel.

What Are the Advantages of Using Hexes Compared to Other Climbing Gear?

Feature	Hexes	Other Climbing Gear
Weight	Generally lightweight and easy to carry, ideal for long climbs.	Can be heavier, especially with larger protection devices.
Versatility	Effective in a variety of crack sizes and placements.	Specific gear often limited to certain crack sizes or placements.
Placement	Quick to place and remove, allowing for faster climbing.	Some gear requires more time and effort to place securely.
Cost	Typically more affordable than other forms of protection.	Can be more expensive, especially for high-end options.
Durability	Highly durable and can withstand significant wear and tear.	Some gear may wear out faster depending on materials.
Ease of Use	Simple design makes them user-friendly for climbers of all levels.	Complex designs can be more difficult for beginners to use effectively.
Stability	Offers stable placements in various rock types.	Some devices may not provide as much stability in certain rock conditions.
Ideal Use Cases	Best used in traditional climbing on crack systems.	Other gear may be better suited for sport climbing or specific environments.

How Can You Properly Place and Maintain Hexes for Optimal Use?

Practicing placement in various climbing scenarios helps climbers become familiar with how different rock types and angles affect hex performance. The more you practice, the more intuitive your placements will become, leading to safer climbing experiences.

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