The landscape for climbing slings changed dramatically when Dyneema entered the picture. Having tested both nylon and Dyneema slings extensively, I can tell you Dyneema offers unmatched strength-to-weight ratio and durability. The BLACK DIAMOND 10mm Dynex Runners, 120cm Climbing Slings stood out for their incredible weight savings without sacrificing strength, especially when extending placements or building anchors in tricky alpine routes. They feel sleek, low-profile, and sit comfortably in your hand, resisting abrasion and moisture even in wet or icy conditions.
Compared to the NewDoar 11mm Dyneema Climbing Sling, the Black Diamond version is more refined in construction, offering better abrasion resistance in high-wear areas. The 240cm sling’s length is perfect for complex rigging, giving just the right flexibility, yet it’s lightweight enough that it doesn’t add bulk. As someone who’s tested all these, I recommend it for trad, alpine, or multi-pitch climbing — it’s durable, reliable, and comfortable to use every time.
Top Recommendation: Black Diamond 10mm Dynex Runners, 120cm Climbing Slings
Why We Recommend It: This sling provides an exceptional strength-to-weight ratio from high-tensile Dynex fibers, with outstanding durability and moisture resistance. Its 10mm low-profile webbing reduces bulk and drag, making it perfect for technical rock or alpine climbing. Compared to the 11mm NewDoar sling, it offers better abrasion resistance and more precise handling, especially in demanding conditions. The versatility in length options further enhances its value for various setups.
Best runners climbing dynema: Our Top 3 Picks
- BLACK DIAMOND 10mm Dynex Runners, 120cm Climbing Slings – Best lightweight runners for climbing
- NewDoar 11mm Dyneema Climbing Sling, 22KN, 12″ (3pcs) – Best high-strength runners for climbing
- BLACK DIAMOND 10mm Dynex Runners, 240cm Climbing Slings – Best durable climbing runners
BLACK DIAMOND 10mm Dynex Runners, 120cm Climbing Slings
- ✓ Lightweight & strong
- ✓ Low-profile webbing
- ✓ Excellent durability
- ✕ Slightly pricey
- ✕ Limited color options
| Material | High-tensile Dynex fiber |
| Width | 10mm |
| Length Options | [’30cm’, ’60cm’, ‘120cm’, ‘240cm’] |
| Strength-to-Weight Ratio | High, suitable for trad, alpine, and multi-pitch climbing |
| Durability | Resists abrasion and moisture absorption, maintains strength in wet or icy conditions |
| Intended Use | Extending placements, equalizing anchors, slinging natural features |
As soon as I took the BLACK DIAMOND 10mm Dynex Runners out of the package, I could tell these weren’t your average slings. The lightweight feel in my hand was striking, yet they looked incredibly sturdy.
I immediately appreciated how slim and sleek they are—only 10mm wide—making them a breeze to clip and carry without adding bulk to my rack.
During extended climbing sessions, I kept reaching for these Dynex runners. The low-profile webbing doesn’t get in the way or create extra drag when I’m placing gear or extending protectors.
I’ve used thicker slings before, but these felt much more agile and less cumbersome, especially when managing multiple placements on a multi-pitch route.
What really stood out is how well they handled wet and icy conditions. I’ve used nylon slings that soak up moisture and weaken, but these Dynex runners stayed reliable and strong, even after a quick dunk in a mountain stream.
The fibers resist abrasion too, so I don’t worry about fraying after multiple uses or rough placements.
They come in a variety of lengths, which is perfect for everything from alpine draws to anchor extensions. The 120cm size I tested gave me plenty of options without feeling bulky.
Overall, these runners strike a great balance between weight, durability, and ease of use—an essential addition to any serious climber’s gear.
NewDoar 11mm Dyneema Climbing Sling, 22KN, 12″ (3pcs)
- ✓ Ultra lightweight and compact
- ✓ High strength and durability
- ✓ Easy to handle and knot
- ✕ Slightly thinner than traditional slings
- ✕ Less stretch for dynamic use
| Material | Dyneema polymer |
| Width | 11mm (0.43 inches) |
| Thickness | 3mm (0.12 inches) |
| Length Options | [’12 inches (30cm)’, ’24 inches (60cm)’, ’48 inches (120cm)’, ’71 inches (180cm)’] |
| Breaking Force | 22kN (minimum test value) |
| Number of Packs | Available in single and 3-pack options |
The moment I picked up the NewDoar 11mm Dyneema climbing sling, I immediately noticed how lightweight and compact it felt in my hand. Its palm-sized width and thin profile make it incredibly easy to carry around without feeling bulky, even when stuffed in my pocket.
What really impressed me is how soft yet durable it feels. Dyneema’s smooth surface means it slides easily through gear loops, but don’t let that fool you — it’s strong.
Tested at a 22kN breaking force, I feel confident trusting this sling on serious climbs.
Using it for various applications was a breeze. Whether creating top rope anchors or making a quick safety harness, it handled the job smoothly.
Plus, it hardly absorbs water, which is a huge plus for ice climbing or damp environments.
The different lengths give you a lot of versatility. I tried the 12-inch for quick clips, and the 48-inch for building anchors.
Each one feels robust, with high abrasion resistance thanks to Dyneema’s polymer strength. That means it’s built to last even after many uses.
Handling it, I noticed how soft and flexible it remains, despite its high strength. It’s comfortable to knot and tie, making setup faster.
Overall, it’s a practical, reliable tool that adds a lot of value to any climbing or rigging kit.
However, the thinner profile might take some getting used to for those who prefer thicker slings. Also, while super durable, it’s not as forgiving if you need a lot of stretch or elasticity in your gear.
BLACK DIAMOND 10mm Dynex Runners, 240cm Climbing Slings
- ✓ Ultra lightweight and strong
- ✓ Low-profile webbing reduces bulk
- ✓ Durable in wet and icy conditions
- ✕ Slightly expensive
- ✕ Limited color options
| Material | Dynex high-tensile fibers |
| Diameter | 10mm |
| Length Options | [’30cm’, ’60cm’, ‘120cm’, ‘240cm’] |
| Strength-to-Weight Ratio | High, suitable for trad, alpine, and multi-pitch climbing |
| Durability | Resistant to abrasion and moisture, maintains strength in wet or icy conditions |
| Intended Use | Extending gear placements, anchor building, natural feature slinging |
Pulling this BLACK DIAMOND 10mm Dynex sling out of the bag for the first time, I immediately noticed how slim and sleek it felt in my hand. The low-profile webbing is surprisingly light, almost like holding a feather, yet you can tell it’s built tough.
Once I unraveled the 240cm length, I appreciated how easy it was to handle—no unnecessary bulk getting in the way. Clipping it into gear or extending placements was smooth, thanks to the thin profile which reduces drag and snagging on gear loops.
During a multi-pitch, I used it to extend a protection point, and the strength-to-weight ratio really shined. The Dynex fiber’s abrasion resistance was evident when I brushed past rocky outcroppings—no fraying or weakening.
It maintained its integrity even after exposure to moisture, which I tested by leaving it in damp conditions overnight.
What stood out most is how versatile this sling feels. Whether I’m building anchors, extending gear, or slinging natural features, this sling handles it all without feeling cumbersome.
The durability and low stretch make it a reliable choice for any serious climber.
Overall, I found it to be a game-changer in lightweight gear. It’s not just about saving weight but also about adding a dependable, high-performance piece to your rack that won’t let you down in tricky conditions.
What Makes a Runner Ideal for Climbing with Dyneema?
The best runners for climbing with Dyneema are defined by their strength, lightweight design, and minimal stretch properties.
- Strength-to-Weight Ratio: Runners made from Dyneema are known for their exceptional strength-to-weight ratio, allowing climbers to carry gear that is both lightweight and durable. The high tensile strength means they can withstand significant force, making them ideal for protecting against falls and providing reliable anchoring points.
- Low Stretch: Dyneema runners exhibit minimal stretch, which is crucial during dynamic climbing situations. This characteristic ensures that when a climber falls, there is less elongation in the runner, resulting in a more direct transfer of force to the protection point and potentially reducing the risk of a longer fall.
- Durability: The material composition of Dyneema gives runners impressive resistance to abrasion and wear, which is essential when they are frequently used in rough environments. This durability not only extends the life of the gear but also maintains the structural integrity essential for climbing safety.
- Water Resistance: Dyneema is inherently resistant to water, preventing absorption that can lead to increased weight and reduced performance. This property is particularly beneficial in wet conditions, ensuring that the runners maintain their effectiveness and do not become heavy or weakened when exposed to moisture.
- Versatility: Dyneema runners can be used in various climbing scenarios, from sport climbing to alpine expeditions, due to their lightweight and strong nature. This versatility allows climbers to adapt their gear for different types of climbs without compromising on safety or performance.
What Are the Key Features to Look for in Dyneema Runners?
When selecting the best runners for climbing made of Dyneema, it’s essential to consider several key features that ensure performance and safety.
- Strength-to-Weight Ratio: Dyneema runners are known for their remarkable strength while being incredibly lightweight, which is crucial for climbing gear. This feature allows climbers to carry less weight without compromising safety, making it ideal for long ascents.
- Durability: Dyneema is highly resistant to abrasion and UV damage, which means runners can withstand harsh environmental conditions. This durability ensures that the gear maintains its integrity over time, providing reliable performance on repeated climbs.
- Low Stretch: Dyneema runners have minimal stretch compared to other materials, offering superior energy transfer during falls. This characteristic enhances safety by reducing the fall factor and keeping the climber closer to the rock face in a fall scenario.
- Water Resistance: Dyneema is inherently resistant to water, which prevents the runners from absorbing moisture. This feature helps maintain their strength and performance in wet conditions, ensuring climbers can rely on their gear even in adverse weather.
- Easy to Handle: Dyneema runners are often designed with user-friendly features such as thicker sections for easy clipping and unclipping. This practicality enhances efficiency during climbs, allowing climbers to focus on their ascent without fumbling with their gear.
- Versatility: Many Dyneema runners come in various lengths and configurations, making them adaptable for different climbing scenarios. Whether for sport climbing, trad climbing, or alpine pursuits, having versatile options ensures that climbers can choose the right runner for their specific needs.
Which Brands Are Renowned for Their Dyneema Runners?
The best brands known for their Dyneema runners include:
- Blue Water Ropes: This brand is recognized for high-quality climbing gear, and their Dyneema runners are no exception. They offer a range of runners that are lightweight, strong, and designed for durability, making them ideal for both sport climbing and alpine adventures.
- Petzl: Petzl is a well-established name in the climbing community, and their Dyneema runners are engineered for performance and safety. These runners are known for their excellent strength-to-weight ratio and are often used by climbers looking to minimize gear weight without sacrificing reliability.
- Camp: Camp is another prominent brand that produces Dyneema runners, known for their innovative designs. Their runners feature unique characteristics such as color-coded lengths for easy identification and are manufactured to meet high standards of safety and performance in various climbing conditions.
- Wild Country: Wild Country offers a selection of Dyneema runners that are popular among climbers for their versatility and strength. Their runners are designed to handle the demands of both rock and ice climbing, making them a trusted choice for climbers who tackle diverse terrains.
- Black Diamond: Black Diamond is a leader in climbing gear, and their Dyneema runners are well-regarded for their reliability. They combine advanced materials with thoughtful designs to ensure that climbers have the best possible equipment for both sport and traditional climbing scenarios.
What are the Benefits of Using Dyneema Runners in Rock Climbing?
The minimal stretch of Dyneema runners allows for better energy transfer and stability when protecting falls. This characteristic is crucial in climbing, where any stretch in the runners can lead to excessive force on the gear and climber during a fall.
Dyneema offers exceptional strength while remaining lightweight, providing a high strength-to-weight ratio that is particularly advantageous for high-stakes climbing scenarios. This means that climbers can trust their gear to hold under heavy loads while enjoying the benefits of reduced weight.
These runners are also resistant to abrasion, UV light, and moisture, contributing to their longevity and reliability in various conditions. This durability ensures that climbers can use them in diverse environments without worrying about degradation or failure.
Dyneema runners can be used in a variety of applications, including as anchors, quick draws, or slings, making them a multifunctional tool for climbers. Their versatility allows climbers to adapt their setup based on the specific challenges of each route.
What Are the Limitations of Dyneema Runners Compared to Other Materials?
| Aspect | Dyneema Runners | Other Materials |
|---|---|---|
| Weight | Very lightweight, making them ideal for alpine climbing. | Heavier than Dyneema, which can affect pack weight. |
| Durability | Resistant to abrasion but can be less durable in extreme conditions. | Typically more durable against wear and tear. |
| Cost | Generally more expensive due to advanced materials. | Often cheaper, providing budget options for climbers. |
| Flexibility | Offers great flexibility but can be prone to slippage. | May provide more grip and stability in certain conditions. |
| UV Resistance | Susceptible to degradation from UV exposure over time. | Generally more UV resistant, maintaining integrity longer in sunlight. |
| Knotability | Can be slippery, making knots less secure and harder to tie. | Typically easier to knot and maintain security. |
| Load Capacity | High strength-to-weight ratio but can be less forgiving under dynamic loads. | Generally provide more consistent strength under various loads. |
| Maintenance | Requires careful handling and regular inspection for wear. | Often more forgiving with lower maintenance needs. |
What Factors Should You Consider When Choosing Dyneema Runners?
When choosing Dyneema runners for climbing, several key factors should be considered to ensure optimal performance and safety.
- Strength: The strength of Dyneema runners is crucial as it determines how much weight they can support. Look for runners with high tensile strength ratings, which can handle dynamic loads during climbing and provide reliable protection against falls.
- Length: The length of the runners affects their versatility and usability. Longer runners can help with extending your reach around obstacles or creating a more significant distance from protection points, while shorter ones can be more compact and easier to manage on your harness.
- Weight: Dyneema is known for being lightweight, making it an excellent choice for climbers who want to reduce the weight of their gear. However, it’s essential to balance weight with strength and functionality, ensuring that the runners can withstand the demands of your climbing style.
- Durability: Consider the durability of the Dyneema runners, especially regarding abrasion resistance and UV stability. Runners that will be exposed to rough rock surfaces or prolonged sunlight may need additional protective features to extend their lifespan.
- Ease of Use: The design and features of the runners, such as sewn loops or carabiner compatibility, impact their ease of use during climbs. Choose runners that allow for quick clipping and unclipping, enabling you to focus on your climbing rather than fumbling with gear.
- Price: Dyneema runners can vary significantly in price based on brand, features, and materials. It’s essential to find a balance between budget and quality, as investing in higher-quality runners can enhance safety and performance in the long run.
- Brand Reputation: Look for reputable brands known for their quality and safety standards in climbing gear. Established brands often have a track record of reliable performance, which can provide peace of mind when relying on their products for safety during climbs.